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Whether it’s carrots helping you see better in the dark or watching TV too long making your eyes go square, we’ve all heard of urban myths that aren’t true. Another urban myth that should be added to this list is that you need to get a pro in to re-line a room. From general GIB® plasterboard stopping to working with drywall tape, lining a room is absolutely a job for a keen DIYer.
But how do you cut GIB® plasterboard or other wallboards, how do you screw into GIB® plasterboard or other wallboards, how do you fix a hole in the wall? And, are there other options than GIB® when it comes to wallboard?
In this guide, with help from our mates at Winstone Wallboards we’re going to break down how to re-line a room to make it as simple as possible. Here’s what we’ll touch on:
How much it costs to re-line a room
How long it takes to re-line a room
What tools you need to re-line a room
How to re-line a room like a pro
Considerations when re-lining a wet room
Let’s get straight into it!
First of all, what actually is re-lining? Put simply, re-lining a room is the act of removing a room's current wall lining to replace it with a new wall lining. Wall lining can come in different types, but most commonly in New Zealand, it’s made of GIB® plasterboard or another form of wallboard. GIB® plasterboard or wallboard as it’s also commonly known, provides a durable surface for paint, wallpaper or any other kind of wall finish.
There are many reasons why someone would put in the time and effort to put up new lining in a room, including
Many variables will impact how much it could cost to re-line a room.
With the right advice and equipment, we believe you can re-line a room yourself. In saying that, you may choose to get a contractor in if you’re tight on time or not confident. Obviously, getting a contractor in will add to the cost of re-lining. But, you may be able to do at least some of the prep work yourself to save time.
Although you may be most familiar with GIB® plasterboard, there are other options for wall lining. Each option comes with its own benefits and cost. Other wall lining options include:
It’s helpful to do a bit of research to weigh up your options.
Perhaps your room has a high ceiling? Or, maybe your room is curved instead of having corners? These are both variables that could affect the cost of lining a room. A high ceiling may require you to hire scaffolding, whereas an unusually shaped room might mean a contractor takes longer to do the job.
Unless you were a builder in a past life, chances are it’ll take you longer to DIY GIB® stop or put up plasterboard than it would a contractor. If you choose to get a contractor in to re-line a standard-sized room, you could be looking at roughly:
If you plan to go it alone, be sure to read over whether you need building consent. In most cases, you don’t, but you may if you’re having a go at wet room wall lining or lining that requires wall bracing. Taking on restricted building work or re-lining work that impacts the structural integrity of your property without the proper qualifications of a Licensed Building Practitioner could get you in hot water, so it pays to check before you bust out the sledge hammer.
Other variables that could impact the time it takes to re-line a room include:
It’s safe to allow for plenty of time, especially if it is your first or second time re-lining. It’s not a race, and you’ll definitely learn a lot and make fewer mistakes by taking your time.
You can put up GIB® plasterboard or other wallboards yourself with the right equipment hire, as we mentioned earlier. Hirepool has a range of kit to help get the job done the smart way.
It’s in the name, really. A drywall lifter can help you to lift drywall or GIB® plasterboard panels. In particular, this piece of hire equipment can help with fixing panels to ceilings, but can also be helpful when lifting large, heavy pieces of drywall or lining rooms with high stud. A drywall lifter can hold the wallboard in position while you attach it to the wall, meaning you’ll need less mates helping to hold it in place while you glue and screw the board to the stud.
A wallboard screw gun takes the elbow grease out of screwing GIB® plasterboard and other drywall or plasterboard panels to the wall. A wallboard screw gun from Hirepool is also cordless to make the job even easier.
Although you may use a wallboard screw gun for putting up drywall panels, a nail gun can also be helpful.
We don’t need to tell you what a ladder is. If you need a ladder or a mobile scaffolding unit for your re-lining, Hirepool has a fantastic range.
When it comes to GIB® stopping or putting up drywall, you need to be precise with your measurements. A tape measure can be a real help with this.
A sabre saw can be helpful during the demolition stage, however, Winstone Wallboards recommends that new wall linings should be cut with a keyhole or plasterboard saw.
It’s vital that your wall studs and bracing are flat before you attach new dry wall. A planer can be a valuable tool to even things out.
Top tip: Use a level to tell if your wall framing is flat.
There’s no pretty way to remove old wall lining. The best way is usually getting stuck in with a crowbar, a sledge hammer or your hands.
Top tip: You’ll also need a set of pliers for removing old nails or screws.
When it comes to sanding down walls and ceilings, a wallboard sander is a handy piece of equipment to save you time.
Top tip: Hirepool can also provide a vacuum to go with the sander if needed.
As with any DIY job, it’s imperative to put safety first. Each piece of gear that you hire from Hirepool will come with its own safety instructions, but here is some general safety gear to consider:
If you’re going to re-lining a room yourself, research and prepare crucial to success. Here’s a simple step by step to get you started.
Speaking of prep, the first thing you should do is prep your room. Start by getting your ducks in a row with equipment, materials and safety gear. Then, it can be a good idea to lay down a floor covering. This step is particularly important if you’re dealing with carpet.
Top tip: Hirepool has a range of carpet cleaners if you create a mess.
Next up, it’s time to go around the bottom of your walls to remove any mouldings. Sometimes known as skirtings, it can be best to use a hammer for the removal. However, try to be delicate when doing your work, as you don’t want to damage the moulding. You’ll need to put it back on after all.
Now it’s on to the fun part. There’s no delicate way to remove your old GIB® plasterboard or drywall and any proud nails or screws. Using either a crowbar, hammer or your hands, break down and tear out your old lining.
Now that your wall framing is exposed, it’s vital to check that your wall studs and bracing are all even. This is a critical step to ensure that your new GIB® plasterboard or drywall is flat and even once you put it up.
Now is your chance if you’re taking the opportunity to rewire or reinsulate your walls. It is worth noting that if you’re doing your own insulation, you must meet building code requirements. If you’re rewiring, you’ll need to get a qualified sparky in.
Top tip: This step is also an excellent opportunity to check that your walls have building paper. If they don’t, you’ll need to put some in. Building paper helps stop moisture from getting into your home.
Now it’s crunch time. We’ve broken this step down to make it even more simple.
Take the time to plan the direction of your boards and how they will line around any windows, doors and mitred edges. Using a pencil, line out any potential cuts.
When cutting GIB® plasterboard or drywall, use a ruler, T-square or a straight edge and a craft knife to score and cut the boards. Then, you should be able to break the dry wall by firmly snapping.
Using a specialised drywall adhesive and glue gun, apply glue to the area of the wall that GIB® plasterboard will be fixed. The glue daubs should be approximately 35mm in diameter.
Quickly after applying glue, attach the GIB® plasterboard to the stud. Then, hold the GIB® plasterboard or drywall in place and use your wallboard screw gun to put in the screws. Be careful not to screw within 200mm of where you’ve applied glue, and the screws are a maximum of 300mm apart.
Once your GIB® plasterboard is all up, it’s time to get stuck into the plastering. You can also do this process yourself. Check out our handy guide that explains how to plaster or GIB® stop.
When attaching your new drywall or GIB®, there are a few tricks to ensure a quality finish, including:
If you’re looking to re-line your ceiling, it’s another kettle of fish. Read our guide that goes over the best way to approach the process.
This part is relatively simple. Get your nail gun, and attach your moulding or skirting back on. Use your level to double-check everything is even once you’re done. Now, you’ve got a blank canvas for painting, new wallpaper or whatever else you choose. For a wall finish idea that’s a bit different, check out our guide on how to create a board and batten wall feature.
You need to use certain materials and follow specific building code requirements given the extra moisture. For example, you shouldn’t use timber or plywood, but instead waterproof sheet material like PVC. It’s helpful to do a bit of research before tackling the wall lining in a wet room at home.
Whether you need to fix a hole in the wall or are in the middle of a full structural renovation, re-lining is undoubtedly a job you can pick up yourself. Don’t stop there. You can also plaster or GIB® stop yourself too. Read our handy guide that goes over the best way to approach it.
Ready to get started? Hirepool has a range of gear to make light work of re-lining. Check out the range online, and then pick up what you need from your local Hirepool branch. For more DIY inspiration, head over to our DIY Hub.
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High Demand Product: We suggest making a booking for this item in advance.
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High Demand Product: We suggest making a booking for this item in advance.
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